![]() ![]() Remove the coolant bolt on bottom front right side of motor and allow coolant to drain.open up the coolant expansion cap to allow it to drain. Drain coolant from radiator, use a 6mm allen wrench and find a hole in the bottom radiator guard, up in there will be a petcock that you take out with the wrench.remove the two 10 or 12mm bolts holding down the TB roller and remove.now remove the tensioner idler torx bolt (T-45 I believe), that is the only thing holding that in.carefully slide timing belt off of cam gears and work it out around the crankshaft pulley, jacking up the motor a little helped give some clearance.Remove two 10mm bolts on the timing belt guard on the right side behind the crankshaft pulley and remove.once you line up all marks, remove the top timing belt cover and then the top bolt on the tensioner and then the lower bolt, i think they were 10mm.If you dont see it, turn the engine over another rev and line up the cam marks again and look again for it. once you line up the marks on the cam gears, look down on the crankshaft gear and look in the valley of the gear for a small notch, it should line up with a mark above it on the block.Those marks were very hard to see, but after a while of looking for it I finally found them. put a 30mm socket on the crankshaft pulley and turn clockwise with a BIG rachet until you can find the marks on the cam gears.remove wheel well cover nut and fold back cover and clamp vise grips on it to hold it in place. ![]() remove the two 12 mm bolts holding down the serpentine belt tensioner and remove that.turn serpentine belt tensioner and lock in a pin to hold it in place.lift coolant tank up and disconnect connector on bottom and put on top of motor, then take out 12mm bolt holding the main side timing cover and remove side timing cover.take out 10mm bolts on the top timing cover, leave top timing cover on though!.take out bolt holding the fuel lines up on top of motor.loosen 10mm bolt holding down the fuel lines down by turbo.Quick list of things I did in order to replace everything: Timing Belt/Water Pump/Tensioner on Volvo 5-cylinder If anyone has questions then please ask and I will help with what I can. Anyway, I replaced the timing belt, TB tensioner, TB Idler, TB roller, and waterpump while I was down there and thought I would share some pics and info on it in case you were about to do it. I feel like I got into a fist fight with the thing. KC95Turbo » I just got done with a LONG day of working on the Volvo. Our experience in the Volvo market has helped us source the highest quality components at affordable prices.Changing Timing Belt/Water Pump/Tensioner? We've assembled the best timing belt and water pump kits using OES (Original Equipment Supplier) and HQR (High Quality Replacement) components. There’s nothing worse than paying a technician, or spending an afternoon replacing a timing belt only to have a bearing fail soon after. It’s always a good idea to replace the components that support the timing belt as well. Timing belt intervals range from 70K-110K miles, depending on which model you have. If any of these components fail, the damage can be catastrophic to your cylinder head and internal engine components. Timing belts often drive the water pump for your Volvo’s engine. The timing belt races around these pulleys and gears keeping the valvetrain of your engine in check! The timing belt plays a critical role in your cooling system too. Timing belt kits normally consist of a timing belt, idler pulley, and tensioner. We hate to be the bearer of bad news, but those stories can be true if you don’t maintain the timing belt and timing belt drive components on late model Volvos. You hear horror stories all the time regarding a failed timing belt. If you just purchased a Volvo and you’re unsure when the timing belt was replaced we recommend erring on the side of caution and replacing. Replacing the timing belt on your Volvo can alleviate many fears and concerns, especially if you’re gearing up for an adventure or trip.
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